Women of the Delta Blues - Pt. 3-Tutwiler Women: Carolyn & Millie

The food, the fishin' and the blues walk hand in hand at the crossroads.  A road trip video of Jesse Mae Hemphill shows that when asked about her life as a musician she goes on and on about the food prepared...the chitlins, the collard greens, the fried pickles, the catfish...no mention of music at all.  

Millie with a mouth full of gold teeth as too shy to pose but carried on with her fishin' for catfish in the swamp.  Carolyn, the first black woman to own a business in Tallahatchie County, served up a load of stories with a huge plate of catfish which, like BB King, has become my favorite southern dish thus far.  Carolyn was quick to point out that you can't really get clogged arteries from her deep fried catfish cuz she cooks it at such high temperatures.  And did this woman have stories or what.  Turns out she's invited me back to do a blues concert in her place and we discussed all kinds of marketing strategies.  Despite knowing of technology both actively resist it for "all the 'evils'  that brings".  

There have been many times when I've been poked fun at for being 'slow and methodical' in my movements and speech.  Today I realized as I woke at 10a and lazily caught lunch at 4p that my mind is on Edmonton speed but my heart and my body are on Mississippi time!

That's the truth y'all,

Kat

Sonny Boy Williamson II

There've been some great harp players but I've never heard or seen (on video that is) anyone like Sonny Boy Williamson II.  The mural in Tutwiler, Mississippi (Home of the Blues) is not only beautiful but helpful as you'll note by the map in the bottom right corner indicating where the grave for Sonny Boy (aka Aleck 'Rice' Miller).  I needed a bit more help so thought local historian Dennis who noted my awkward tourist manner and happily volunteered to lead the way to this grave site...thank goodness!  Blues harp (harmonica) players pay homage to this great musician and leave harmonicas and coins (which Dennis says usually get borrowed...indefinitely). 

No Reed Kat

Signs of Hopson Plantation

I'm at the Hopson Plantation south east of Clarksdale on highway #49 just off #61.  The photo opportunities are just too many to post on this site but imagine the free dinners you'll invite me too at your house so I can show you ALL the great shots!  :-)  Anyway, here are some of the signs around the property which is being cared for by a couple great guys, Bill and Guy.  They work very hard to try and keep things up and are getting ready for a welcome home bash with Pinetop Perkins who was raised on this plantation and worked the land for many years.  

Hopson has become a very important blues historical marker and the commitment to keeping blues alive is evident everywhere I look.  Just this morning over a cup of coffee I wrote two new songs.  Other than me though -- ha ha -- many of the Delta musicians played out here with Charlie Patton, Son House, Sonny Boy Williamson II and, and, and....  Today I followed the train that goes right by this farm and could've hopped it no problem as it was moving so slow.  That old diesel Santa Fe was smokin' to beat 60 and ridin' down the crooked, slanted tracks clinging on for dear life.  Wild!  I managed to get me a couple toots off the engineer again.  Man that makes me happy!  

An that line keeps on keepin' on...check the next couple blogs...

Kat

Clarksdale, MS - Birthplace of North American Blues Music

As I dipped my fingers in the "Big Muddy" (as the Mississippi River is called here) catfish and turtles swimmin' I realized that I am in the Delta!  I think I'm in shock and awe to realize this dream.  There is no reading or writing or singing that can replace actually being here.  Just think...I ate fried green tomatoes ('ta wanda') and a catfish sandwich, baked in the heat and hung out at the local 'gas station' stoop with the people of Clarksdale all in one day.  

I don't know what the people of Clarksdale thought of me all decked out in my new clothes driving a relatively new Toyota and buying a 6 pack of Corona.  It is too soon to talk intelligently of Clarksdale but I will say that this is truly a 'community' of people.  Sitting, waving, talking, arguing people who know each other by the first name.  Amidst the activity there is time for each other.  The closeness is what it sometimes feels like for me at the Blue Chair Acoustic Cafe in Edmonton.  

Some things I've never seen:

1.  4 bags of groceries costing $18.90.

2.  No 'brand' names in the supermarket.

3.  Security at the supermarket.

4.  $.50 at the car wash lasting 10+ minutes.

5.  A wall of plexiglass enclosing the server and all the hard liquor at the local liquor store.

Above you'll see I've posted photos I took today of an abandon cotton gin.  It is difficult to know how old this gin would be but there were signs that updates to the building were had.  I walked out into the rows of harvested cotton, grabbed a handful of dirt and literally baked in the 10 minutes of standing doing the photos.  It was impossible to ignore what picking cotton from morning to night in this heat on this dry and sandy ground would've been like.  I felt a deep sorrow for what has been.

I'll be taking the next couple days off to write, relax and rejuvenate so that I can remain open to this process.  There is no fire here, I'll learn what I learn and translate it into music.  Much is brewing...

Corona Kat

Women of the Delta Blues - Pt. 2- Louise Johnson

In the blazing 27c Mississippi heat I found that little remains of blues piano player, vocalist and writer Louise Johnson.  Her fame seems mostly contained in the Delta but she was impressive nonetheless.  Charlie Patton is quoted as saying "if you wanna hear the finest piano player around come out to Fosters Juke and hear Louise Johnson".  Above is the original Kirby-Wells Plantantion sign where Louise was raised and worked.  (Nothin' like John Deere green mailboxes eh?)

Tickle them L.

Kat

Women of the Delta Blues - Pt. 1- Memphis Minnie

Memphis Minnie is the heroine of any serious blues woman even to this day.  She was a musical genius who held her own in songwriting, playing and singing through the 30's and 40's.  Much has been written about her.  

When I first began my music career it was amazing to see a photo of a woman with an acoustic guitar from an era that is overwhelmingly male.  The first blues song I ever played on stage some 8 years ago at the Hornby Island Blues Camp was "When The Levee Breaks".  I sat on stage with Rick fines accompanying me after a very strong verbal push by Sue Foley to "just get up and do it and quit 'chore whinin' ".  Good advice and lucky to receive that kind of support!

MM Rocks,

Kat

CN Lineman: Anthony Broach of Walls, Mississippi

I introduce to you...Anthony Broach, CN Lineman for Chicago Illinois Line.  He lives in Walls, Mississippi the birthplace and resting place for Memphis Minnie (aka Lizzie 'Kid' Douglas). As I turned on the camera, no word of a lie, Lineman Broach and I heard a train whistle in the distance.  (If you've been following from the beginning you'll note that this also happened in Waldron.)  

And, a gift for me at the Walls crossroad...an old, rusty, bent railway spike.  How much better does this get?

Slide on,

Kat