Women of the Delta Blues - Pt. 3-Tutwiler Women: Carolyn & Millie

The food, the fishin' and the blues walk hand in hand at the crossroads.  A road trip video of Jesse Mae Hemphill shows that when asked about her life as a musician she goes on and on about the food prepared...the chitlins, the collard greens, the fried pickles, the catfish...no mention of music at all.  

Millie with a mouth full of gold teeth as too shy to pose but carried on with her fishin' for catfish in the swamp.  Carolyn, the first black woman to own a business in Tallahatchie County, served up a load of stories with a huge plate of catfish which, like BB King, has become my favorite southern dish thus far.  Carolyn was quick to point out that you can't really get clogged arteries from her deep fried catfish cuz she cooks it at such high temperatures.  And did this woman have stories or what.  Turns out she's invited me back to do a blues concert in her place and we discussed all kinds of marketing strategies.  Despite knowing of technology both actively resist it for "all the 'evils'  that brings".  

There have been many times when I've been poked fun at for being 'slow and methodical' in my movements and speech.  Today I realized as I woke at 10a and lazily caught lunch at 4p that my mind is on Edmonton speed but my heart and my body are on Mississippi time!

That's the truth y'all,

Kat

Sonny Boy Williamson II

There've been some great harp players but I've never heard or seen (on video that is) anyone like Sonny Boy Williamson II.  The mural in Tutwiler, Mississippi (Home of the Blues) is not only beautiful but helpful as you'll note by the map in the bottom right corner indicating where the grave for Sonny Boy (aka Aleck 'Rice' Miller).  I needed a bit more help so thought local historian Dennis who noted my awkward tourist manner and happily volunteered to lead the way to this grave site...thank goodness!  Blues harp (harmonica) players pay homage to this great musician and leave harmonicas and coins (which Dennis says usually get borrowed...indefinitely). 

No Reed Kat

Signs of Hopson Plantation

I'm at the Hopson Plantation south east of Clarksdale on highway #49 just off #61.  The photo opportunities are just too many to post on this site but imagine the free dinners you'll invite me too at your house so I can show you ALL the great shots!  :-)  Anyway, here are some of the signs around the property which is being cared for by a couple great guys, Bill and Guy.  They work very hard to try and keep things up and are getting ready for a welcome home bash with Pinetop Perkins who was raised on this plantation and worked the land for many years.  

Hopson has become a very important blues historical marker and the commitment to keeping blues alive is evident everywhere I look.  Just this morning over a cup of coffee I wrote two new songs.  Other than me though -- ha ha -- many of the Delta musicians played out here with Charlie Patton, Son House, Sonny Boy Williamson II and, and, and....  Today I followed the train that goes right by this farm and could've hopped it no problem as it was moving so slow.  That old diesel Santa Fe was smokin' to beat 60 and ridin' down the crooked, slanted tracks clinging on for dear life.  Wild!  I managed to get me a couple toots off the engineer again.  Man that makes me happy!  

An that line keeps on keepin' on...check the next couple blogs...

Kat