Monday, April 14, 2008

Lost but Not So Much!



Mississippi John Hurt







My musical positioning is natural to the music of the Delta Hill Country (north Delta region) in the loping, lush green hills.  A genteness and an ease that is reflected in the musical artistry of folk-blues legend, Mississippi John Hurt, and Jessie Mae Hemphill.  There is not alot complicated in the music...strong on melody and on trance repetitive patterns would best characterize this style from my point of view.  

Mississippi John Hurt has been a long time favorite of mine ever since I saw a short video clip of his work a number of years ago.  His infectious smile and rhythmic nature are hard to resist and I found him to be a shy, humble and happy guy on the clips.  By all recollections of him this is true.  

He took me on quite a ride today to find his place.  It is the remotest location of all I have been to so far.  Deep in the groves along winding gravel roads I came upon his home, a shotgun shack now a museum.  The peacefulness of setting was beautiful and it was hard to leave.  But then it was like I couldn't leave because for the first time on this trip I was lost.  Circled his place for a couple hours growing tired but persistent.  I threw on a Jessie Mae disc and all was well with the world.  

Although Miss. John wrote alot about Avalon, his place is actually close to Valley (photo of the store).  It is a maze but well worth the trip!  Thanks for all your great tunes and perfect Delta attitude MJH !

Kat

Legendary Robert Johnson





Robert Johnson's life and death have been the kind of tales that blues music is famous for.  Bursting the bubble ever so gently, it is evident that this 27 year old man was like other Delta musicians of the era--a traveller, a story teller, a thief of other's material, a ladies man and an amazing talent.  He learned from Charlie Patton and Son House and went on to develop a style and a skill that likely took him many, many hours of practicing and a load of natural talent.  

Like so many, Robert grew up on a plantation (photo at the top) in Tunica, MS and moved around alot.  What is known about him on a factual basis is that he was a scoundrel that sought redemption in his final days before being poisoned in Three Forks Juke just outside of Greenwood, MS.  (Although cause of death from the medical doctor listed Syphilis).   Robert Johnson memorabilia is housed at the Robert Johnson Museum on the second floor above the Blue Parrot Cafe in Greenwood.  Steven LaVere has put this together for all of us to remember the archetypal figure Robert Johnson was in blues music.   And, as I understand it, there is continued controversy surrounding this collection as the descendants of Robert Johnson have not been paid their 'dues' (or so rumor has it...don't want to get myself sued here).

Despite all sorts of myths about where he is buried, the Little Zion MB church just north of Greenwood is the location as you can see in one of the photos that makes the point.  The other two graves are cool for the mythology but that's about it.  

It is hard not to get caught up in the mythology of it all but he is, in my mind, impossible to imitate because he is the culmination of all that is the Delta.

'Nuff said...
Kat

WGRM & Greenwood, Mississippi






Greenwood was really, really good to me.  First Bobby Rush then Ben Wiley Payton (acoustic blues legend of the area) and salads, salads and salads!  One thing about the Delta...not too big on veggies unless it's fried...it ain't food.  But in Greenwood I got my vitamins on track.  The Dancing Rabbit Book Store was this great little shop on Howard Street...I bought so many books and CD's I was almost embarassed...well, almost.  Really hard to find material was readily available in this shop.  After that great find I found Ben Payton.  A lovely gentleman with chops like you wouldn't believe on that acoustic guitar.  He made it look effortless and I learned alot by watching him play, sing and move his body.  We spoke for a long while at a break and he would really love to come to Canada and I would really like to make that happen for him.  A true blue acoustic blues legend in the area and let me tell you that's hard to find in these days of electric blues rock.  

Greenwood is very important to the history of Delta Blues from my perspective because it is also the town where Robert Johnson (I'll say more about that in the next blog).  But it is home to the Robert Johnson Museum in the building that housed the groundbreaking radio station, WGRM.  I put the information photo up so you could have a look.  And can you imagine just how much ancestral spit there is in that old microphone?  Lots of DNA let me tell you.  Ha Ha!

To make life even better I stayed in this luxurious Victorian mansion that is a B&B.  The owners had to be out of town so they left the keys under the mat and I helped myself to the entire place.  Quite the shift from the plantation cabins to this place.  And the view of the Yazoo River from the balcony was glorious!  Blessed I am.

Peace out...Kat